Pliny The Elder and IPA Biscuits and Gravy

Pure Joy and Happiness

Two of my favorite things coming together as one. It just doesn’t get any better than this. Well, a cigar wouldn’t hurt, but I’m not complaining. I’m all about comfort food. Everyone loves it.  If you don’t, you’re a liar. I’m also all about IPA’s. It’s my personal favorite style of beer and can come in many different colors. The bitter citrus, the sweet malt, the hop bite; what’s there not to love? As it turns out, it goes very well with a lot of foods, too. So, I decided to mash the two together and do a pairing with them with the added bonus of instructions on how to make the dish yourself because what fun is it if you can’t eat this yourself?
Now, I was born and raised in New York, so biscuits and gravy is a dish that I didn’t grow up with. I think that’s one of the reasons why I love it so much; all the wasted years not eating it. However, me being me, plain old biscuits and gravy aren’t good enough to do a pairing with. I had to kick it up a bit…..
…. And what better way to do that than to add beer to the recipe?  Better yet, why not add an IPA? Great idea, I know. When people heard about this, they thought I added the beer to the gravy when in actuality, I added it to the biscuit dough. The recipe for that dough is as follows….

4 cups white flour
1 and 1/2 sticks of butter (softened at room temperature)
1 tsp. of salt
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. sugar
1 12 ounce can or bottle of IPA of your choosing

Standard biscuit making procedure follows. Sift the dry ingredients together, cut the butter into the dry ingredients, pour the beer into the mixture and form into a dough. The product should look like this…..

… Attractive, I know. Now form into biscuits, whatever size you feel is appropriate, and bake in the oven at 425 degrees for 15-20 minutes, and voila.
Onto the gravy. Now, I’m a carnivore, but my girlfriend is a vegetarian (unfortunately), so I had to make a vegetarian gravy to top the biscuits with, which is okay because it makes the cooking a bit easier. The ingredients for the gravy are…

1 medium to large onion
1 clove of garlic
1 stick of butter
1/2 cup of flour
Broth or soup of your choosing
Rosemary, cumin, salt, and cayenne powder to taste

Start by finely dicing the onion and garlic and caramelizing them in a sauce pan. After they’re nice and sweet, add the butter and flour to make a roux. This is where I add my seasonings. I wanted to add just enough cayenne to get a bit of a smoky and spicy flavor on the mid palate, but not enough to make it hot. The rosemary is added just because it goes fantastically with IPAs. Finally, add your broth until it is at the consistency of your liking.

Finished Gravy. Another Attractive, Yet Delicious, Sight.

Now top and enjoy with your favorite IPA.
Finally, onto the pairing.
I chose Pliny the Elder because, well, it’s Pliny the Elder. First bite of the biscuit gives off a very velvety, creamy texture with a nice crust, that is suddenly brought to a halt by a sweet maltiness and hop bitterness, but not like you would find in a beer. It’s very subtle, but enough to give the biscuits a little something they were missing, as they would’ve been kind of “one note” before. Mixing with the gravy brings a whole new level. There’s a creamy, sweetness from the onions, bit of heat and smokiness on the middle of the tongue and a nice earthy, herbal note throughout. Now, the trifecta. The Pliny cuts through the fatty, creaminess from the butter and flour nicely. It melds very well with the heat given off by the cayenne. It doesn’t subdue it’s flavor, just the heat a bit, allowing you to taste the actual flavor of the cayenne and not just the heat. It helps bring forth a nice smoky, earthy, and floral flavor that was hidden before. It plays nicely with the rosemary. The marriage of the two helps bring forth more piney flavors from both the rosemary and the Pliny. It helps add a nice clean finish to a very rich and heavy meal and helps lighten the palate. The hop bitterness, citrus flavors, and malt of the Pliny also add another dimension of flavor to the biscuits and meld very nicely with the sweet onion flavor.
This was verging on perfect. Cheap, easy to make, and an absolutely delicious pairing. I can die happy now.

Max’s Belgian Beer Festival

If you had walked into Max’s Taphouse this past Thursday, you might have been sorely disappointed. The world-famous Charm City bar that otherwise boasts 140 rotating drafts and 1200 bottles had no drafts available and a limited bottle selection. Though it sounds like a dismal scene, Max’s was taking these measures to prepare for one of their biggest annual events—The Belgian Beer Festival. A 3-day event, the festival offers the largest selection of Belgian beer in the US—over 100 Belgian drafts and 200 bottles. In addition, the food menu that is otherwise saturated with gastro-pub fare experiences a Belgian makeover. Here at BarleyDine we know that nothing goes together like beer and food!

Beer lovers lined up for a taste of Belgium

I arrived at the festival on Saturday afternoon, eager to tear into some Belgian pints and plates. Not surprisingly, the line was out the door, though moving steadily. In speaking to those that had attended the event previously, we learned that we were in for a “nut-to-butt” situation once we were inside. Yes, nut-to-butt, because shoulder-to-shoulder really does not serve to describe how uncomfortably crowded it was. But that’s all part of the fun, right? Pro-tip: Go with a partner, that way you can take turns fetching beer and grub without compromising the precious couple inches of flat surface (barstool, windowsill, banaster, etc.) you managed to stake out.

See what I mean?

The food menu offered moules (mussels) prepared three different ways, a cheese plate, a meat plate, a couple salads, and a few sandwiches. I’m admittedly a shellfish lover, so I decided to start with the Moules Grand-Mère. The mussels are presented in a creamy beer sauce with bacon and in this case the beer was a framboise, which I thought was a very interesting choice. I paired this with Lindemans framboise lambic and it made for a lovely appetizer!

Moule Grand-Mère and Lindemans Framboise

Lindemans framboise is heavily carbonated and has loads of wonderful raspberry tartness, which gives it a champagne quality. It’s very drinkable with an ABV of only about 3%. The salty, smoky, crunchy bacon offset the sweet, creamy mussels really nicely. Though the raspberry is very forthright in this lambic, it was an unobtrusive compliment to the mussels and it brought out the framboise in the sauce that might have been too subtle to notice on its own.

Endive Salad with Barbãr

Later in the day I went for one of the salads—a Belgian endive salad with honey goat cheese, green apples, walnuts, and citrus vinaigrette. I paired this with Barbãr (a Belgian Honey Ale) by Brasserie Lefèbvre. This was a treat! The ale had a spicy citrus and coriander character at first, but the last note was of pure honey sweetness. The bitter endives and tart apples were nicely contrasted with the sweetness of this ale, while the honey in the goat cheese was able to shine through. Absolutely delightful! I can’t imagine a better pairing for this salad.

Other notables:  Flying Dog’s Raging Bitch on cask, Stillwater/Emelisse Collaboration Holland Oats, an amber ale with apples and oats—surprisingly hoppy with a strong apple cider flavor. I talked to several people who were excited to see so many sours on the menu, so if sours are your thing, don’t miss this festival next year!

Max's bartenders were hard at work all weekend.

If you get a chance to visit Max’s, I would highly recommend it. They have beers you never even knew you wanted to try. They also host a German beer festival in the fall that I’m sure will not disappoint. Cheers!

Sierra Nevada Bigfoot 2012 and Waffles

Waffles topped with reconstituted dried fruit and Bigfoot 2012

I don’t know what my obsession has been with waffles, as of late. Barleywine obsessions are understandable, well, any beer obsession really. I was struck with  an idea while drinking another barleywine one night. The dark fruit and caramel notes got me thinking; why not pair it with something similar?
I began by tossing butter, brown sugar, bourbon, maple syrup, cinnamon, and a heap of dried fruits (apples, pears, dates, figs, and apricots) together and let simmer until the fruits were nice and plump again and the sauce had thickened  considerably. This combination was a bit too cloyingly sweet, so to cut through that, I added some balsamic vinegar.

Dried fruits reconstituting

While that was simmering and doing it’s delicious reconstitution, I set up to make the waffles. Just usual waffle batter, but with a bit of almond extract, salt and cinnamon added, and the final touch, crushed up chocolate almond biscotti. Nothing too special here.
Now, there are a few reasons I decided to pair this with a 2012 Bigfoot. One, it has those classic barleywine style features; deep, sweet caramel malts, toffee and sugar cane. However, if this was all it had to offer, the pairing would become, once again, far too cloying in terms of sweetness. Which brings me to my second reason; the hop profile. This is a fantastic beer simply because of how balanced they’ve made it. There is a hop bitterness to it that helps cut through the sweetness and lightens the palate, where as typical barleywines sit a bit heavy on the tongue. Thirdly, once again involving the hops, the citrus flavor given off by the hops would go very well with the underlying citrus flavors of the fruits.
Now finally, onto the tasting….

The waffles themselves had a very nice crunch from the biscotti. It gave the dish some texture that would have been lacking without. This is something else sommeliers should take into consideration with food and beer pairings; it gives the taste and the effect on the palate a different twist and makes it much more enjoyable. The fruit topping was very sticky sweet. All of the ingredients were present, but they all melded nicely together. The bourbon and maple syrups seemed to be intertwined, the balsamic vinegar, though placed to break up the sweetness, played very well and seemed to be very helpful. The fruits themselves seemed to take on the essence of the sauce, while still keeping their citrusy, fruity flavor. A sip of the Bigfoot along with the waffles brought out some unexpected, but very pleasant notes. The nutty, almondy taste that had been subdued by the topping was brought out and sat well on the middle of the tongue. The bittering hops helped clear the palate so that the next bite would be a different experience. The chocolate, which was also subdued, came out nicely, but only for a brief moment. The sweetness and caramel malt of the Bigfoot really played well with the waffles; both had the same sweet profiles. All in all, a very successful pairing. Though this was a VERY heavy meal, the pairing of the two kept me wanting to try it again and again, as it was an ever-changing, and delicious, marriage.

SOUTHERN TIER IMPERIAL CHERRY SAISON

FARMHOUSE ALE/SAISON | 10.10% ABV

Loaded with cherry flavors, this Imperial Saison still seems to keep a firm grasp on the rustic flavors of the style. Perfect with roasted chicken or even beef perhaps, not mention some heavy, sweet deserts.

beer + food = Barleydine

RUSSIAN RIVER CONSECRATION

AMERICAN WILD ALE | 10.00%

Hands down one of the top 3 best American Wild Ales I’ve had to date, easily holding it’s own against such classics as De Dolle Oerbier and Duchesse de Bourgogne. In your face wild yeast flavors leading into an abundant fruity finish. Perfect with some of your favorite stinky cheeses.

beer + food = Barleydine

SEBAGO FRYE’S LEAP IPA

AMERICAN IPA | 6.20%

Pairing: Salmon fillet with twice baked potatoe and side salad.

Beer notes: Very well balanced hop aroma and flavor leads to a nice moderate finish.

 

beer + food = Barleydine

21st AMENDMENT BACK IN BLACK IPA

BLACK IPA

21st Amendment Back in Black IPA w/ Buckwheat Pancakes, 100% Pure Vermont Maple Syrup, bacon and Organic peanut butter.

beer + food = Barleydine

BRUERY COTON

OLD ALE | 14.50% ABV

The Bruery is rather new to the craft beer scene. Having recently celebrated their 2nd anniversary with the release of Coton, Patrick Rue and Crue is seeing a massive increase in the demand for his beers. An example of the demand would be the 250 tickets available for the Black Tuesday release that were being sought after by more than 1200 Bruery lovers. So many requests in fact that the Bruery servers crashed on the day of the release. Most breweries do not experience a demand like Patrick has been in his second year, but most breweries do not make beers like the Bruery.

As mentioned above, Coton is the celebratory beer release for the Bruery’s second year anniversary. [On a side note Papier was the first anniversary release and if your not seeing a trend check out the 50 gifts to be given on wedding anniversaries.] Coton is an Old Ale a cousin to Barleywine making both very similar in body, flavor and aroma. Loaded, I mean loaded with unique malt character which imparts flavors such as sour fruit, fig and caramel which also are present in the nose with the addition of a slight alcohol aroma. That moderate alcohol flavor is hidden so well under layers of malt characteristics, wood undertones and yeasty spice notes. Coton is a big, beautiful beer that many have said needs some aging. Although I agree to a point, I tend to like my beers young before flavors and aromas begin to meld together and balance themselves out.

Coton sparked so many ideas as far as pairings when I took the inaugural sip. First thought was a big gamey meal of Bison or Venison with heavy sauces and fresh roasted vegetables. My mind then went to one of my favorite afternoon snacks, Stilton cheese. It would have been a brilliant pairings, the tangy blue flavors being balanced by the heavy malt flavors and rounded out by the slight taste of alcohol. Given this was my after dinner beer though, I chose to have it with a fairly rustic cigar which was a perfect end to the day.

beer + food = Barleydine

HANSSENS ARTISANALL OUDE GUEUZE

GUEUZE | 6.00% ABV

If you follow Barleydine you will already know my love affair for Gueuze. Hands down my favorite beer style. If I were to pick one style to drink for the rest of my life, it would be Gueuze. There is no other beer that comes even close to the complexity and authenticity of traditional Gueuze. They are loaded with unique flavors and complex layers of wheat, barnyard, sour and lots of funk. Upon first taste, many would wonder what on earth you would pair with a Gueuze given it’s most prevalent flavor is sour. Actually there are lots of foods, but the main flavor that one must lean towards when pairing a Gueuze is sweet if you plan to contrast or earthy as a compliment. Keeping those two flavors in mind and one can arrange a terrific pairing with this ancient beer style.

Notes: Pouring a hazy golden-amber color with loads of barnyard notes and lactic aroma on the nose. That lactic acid follows straight to the palate leaving hints of lemon, vinegar and tart fruity notes. The abundant wheaty body leaves the palate refreshed while the very poignant sour flavor leaves a nice long finish. Once accustomed to the unique and complex flavors of a Gueuze, one would concur that it stands to be one of the best beer styles available worldwide.

Pairings: Contrast – shrimp, sweet sausage, escargot, lobster, crab cakes, light salads. Compliment – Stilton cheese or other varieties in the Bleu family.

beer + food = Barleydine

TROEGS FLYING MOUFLAN

BARLEYWINE | 9.30% ABV

Pairing: Tiramisu

Pairing Notes: Flying Mouflan is a fairly low key Barleywine, it’s flavors meshed well with the Tiramisu while not overpowering. The abundant malts of the beer linked with the sweet creamy flavors of the desert, while the Amaretto flavors of the Triamisu teamed nicely with the bitter malt flavors and alcohol. The big, creamy mouthfeel of Mouflan identified itself well to the creamy filling of the Italian desert. A very nice combination of beer and desert flavors leaves a terrific moderate finish behind, while the alcohol swipes through cleansing your palate.

Fantastic pairing with the proper Barleywine, be sure to choose one that’s well balanced and not too hot.

beer + food = Barleydine